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ALL ABOUT CARDING FOR BEGINNERS

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  • Post last modified:August 10, 2022
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ALL ABOUT CARDING FOR BEGINNERS

ALL ABOUT CARDING.

The key significant updates done to this carding coursebook: it will cover the essentials of most carding information. Going into totally everything would mean going into ID robbery and fake IDs which can be classed as 2 distinct classifications of their own.

What I’m going to cover:

A quick overview of what online carding is

SOCKS and why we use them Finding a cardable site and what cardable means Carding “non-cardable websites” with fake CC scans and other fake documents
Carding while on the job

Getting CC, CVV, CVV2 through use of mobiles Skimming whilst on the job Using carbonless receipts to get details (pretty outdated method) Trashing

Trashing for receipts and credit reports (pretty outdated although still works) Phishing over the phone

Phishing over the phone for details Keylogging for CVV2s

Hardware keylogging Carding In-store

What in-store carding is (very brief) How it’s done How to act and present yourself in-store Carding over the phone

Carding over the phone IRC

ALL ABOUT CARDING FOR BEGINNERS
ALL ABOUT CARDING FOR BEGINNERS



Services provided in IRC Advantages to using IRC for info Disadvantages How to find carding channels and how to approach them How to rip in IRC Phishing for Change of billing

What COB is and why it’s useful Use through phishing pages Use through keylogging Drops and what you need to know about them

Drops and what you need to know about them

What carding is:


Carding summed up quickly is the act of obtaining someone’s credit card information, from the CC#, CVV, CVV2, CVN, and the billing address, along with the expiry date and name of the person the card belongs to along with a signature.

Online Carding

Online carding is the purchasing of goods done over the internet with the CVV2. Now for you n00bies, you’re probably wondering what a CVV2 is, it’s simply just the database of basic info for the card such as the card type (e.g. Mastercard) First and last name, address and postcode, phone number of the card owner, the expiry date (and start date if it’s a debit card or prepaid CC), the actual CC number and the CVC (card verification code, which is the 3 digits on the back of the card).


This is the format you usually get them in when you buy off IRC:

:::MC ::: Mr John Doe ::: 1234567890123456 ::: 09|11 ::: 01/15 ::: 123 ::: 123 fake street, fakeville, ::: Fake City ::: DE24 TRH ::: 01234-567890 :::

 

SOCKS and why we use them

Now with ANY fraud at all you have to take precautions so you don’t make it easy to get caught in your wrongdoings. As usual, I swear against TOR for carding/scamming because most nodes are blacklisted by websites and because TOR cycles through various different proxies; and even if you configure it to go straight through an exit node of your choice it’s still not worth it. You can use JAP but make sure you’re using some constant sock proxies from the same city, town, or area that the card is from; also go war-driving and use a VPN (don’t trust anyone off IRC with these, won’t comply with LE).

You can get good SOCKS here (people are selling accounts for the site in IRC all the time), that’s the best place but even I ended up losing the account eventually.

want FRESH proxies every time you card.

 

Finding a cardable site and what cardable means

Basically a cardable site holds these characteristics and what you should be looking for to determine an easily “cardable” website:

The top one you need to look for on the site’s TOS is that they send to any address they don’t, with a COB, photoshopped verification (will go into detail later), or some social engineering over the phone). Secure code (most of the time if you ask your vendor they’ll include them in your CVV2 details textfile), if they do have one of these you have to put in and you don’t have them then don’t waste your time

If they ship internationally (for obvious reasons, but you can just stick to local websites and order to your local drop) If they leave packages at the door when no one’s in, or around the back in a safe area to call you up to verify or want a utility bill, passport or a scan of the actual CC) It is hard to find websites online now that have most of these qualities, therefore we carding “non-cardable websites” with fake CC scans and other fake documents the card, but they want verification either through phone or scans of a utility bill, credit card or passport.

For this, you’ll want to get a pay-as-you-go deal for a cheap mobile all in fake to help you. Hell if the person’s details you’re using is local to you and you’re daring then go to their home and beige box from there; it’d be very convincing.

Carding, have some bullshit story if you’re having it sent to a diff address such as a family member’s birthday and you need it there as quick as possible as it’s a blast it’s easy to get them mixed up, so make sure who it is calling you 1st.

For CC scans and how to do them check the attachments at the end of this file, they tuts have said to do that, you then tilt them a little bit so it does actually look like a scan. To make it even more believable put some paper in the scanner (dark shade of it and then do the same with the back, then send the scans to them via e-mail or post. The same goes for utility bills

Do not use the same designs when making your CC scans, otherwise, it will become too I’m giving you a globe hologram image so you won’t have to buy them in IRC; unfortunately, all of my visa hologram pics are shit, but I’m working on getting a good one soon

Carding whilst on the job

Getting CC, CVV, and CVV2 through the use of mobiles

Believe it or not, giving your information out to anyone anywhere is not a wise choice, you can not trust anyone in this day and age. Yes, there are carders working on the and using them freely without a care in the world. The most common places for a carder to work are brand label clothing stores such as Limey’s, Charlie Brown’s, and all the other trendy shops.

Ever noticed when you or someone else has paid at the desk with a debit card or credit card that they bring out a keypad from under the desk, then put your card under the desk with it to get the keypad, they are doing more than just that; just because they’re not taking the card and running off with it does not mean they’re not stealing your information. A friend of my dad used to card and work in a clothing store,

he used to have a piece of play-doh stuck under the desk and he used to press the card onto the piece of play-doh, unfortunately, he began doing it too much, and a co-worker and from what I know he is still doing time. The moral is, to be careful with already put on the play-doh. Also, you can’t get the CVC through this method, I was just giving a classic example from history

But there is a new wonderful invention called cameras, video recording, and mobile phones and they are even all working on the same thing. It’s best to test it out 1st and have a camera on your phone that is at least over 2 megapixels and allows long enough video recording times. The phone is set to video record and on lighting, if needed, and taped underneath the desk for you to record both sides of the card for all the information you need, as well as being quick you can get a lot more than 2 on,

You need a good reason to be going under the desk to get the chip and pin machine, so make the desk look cluttered up and put shit in the way of everything, such as coat hangers and various other items; or you could just flat out bullshit the customer and say that the chip and pin machine on the desk isn’t working so you need to get the other one, take their card and then go under searching the desk and quickly show it to the camera phone and then get the chip and pin machine and put the card in it and then hand to the customer to put in their pin as normal, unaware you have a CVV2 to later use when shopping online.


Skimming whilst on the job

For skimming, you’ll want a mini portable MSR500M reader that can be fitted on your waistline belt or of course once again under the desk, if you’re a cashier. But you’ll also want an MSR206 writer if you plan on writing the tracks to an embossed CR-80 piece of plastic later (you can make these yourself but embossers are expensive and it’s an expensive procedure, so wait a while until you do that yourself and buy them from IRC (be careful, people like to rip with plastics, or you’ll get shit quality if you don’t watch out).

If you plan to just sell the dumps on IRC then that’s fine, but you’ll still need the PIN as well, so if you’re a waiter you can get a cheeky peek at them putting their pin into the chip and pin device while you keep hold of it slightly (have them put the pin in while they’re sat down and you’re standing up). It’s much easier to skim in as much. You can keep the MSR500M in your front pocket of the uniform you’re wearing and pretend to be giving the card a clean on the sleeve (bullshit and say the device won’t read it), while really you’re giving it a swipe into your reader.

This way the person doesn’t even get suspicious because you don’t take their card out of sight with them. I guess you could do that technique with clothing retail too when you get their card in your dirty little hands, but peeking for the PIN is harder or you’ll have to have a friend shoulder surf for it (or if they’re on the next register have them use a Sony cyber shot c902 camera phone and pretend to have them talking on the phone while really they’re recording the person next to them putting in their PIN; cyber shots are really inconspicuous looking with their cameras and VERY clear [5mpixel]).


Using carbonless receipts to get details (a pretty outdated method)

If the store you work at hasn’t gone carbonless on the transactions information then you can get most of the info from the receipt you get a copy of for yourself and note down the pin on this as well when/if you get it.

Trashing

Trashing for receipts and credit reports (pretty outdated although still works)

Ever heard the expression “Another man’s trash is another man’s gold”? That’s exactly what this is. You’d be surprised how many people haven’t heard of a paper shredder or bonfire. They just dump their financial records containing SSN’s/NI, full name, address, bank, credit card number, CVV, CVV2, etc. All on forms people couldn’t be bothered to dispose of properly because they thought they were JUST old records. Again carders work on the inside again for when they want to do trashing,

a lot of janitors wear rags but you’d be surprised how secretly rich most of them are (along with the other shit they steal from work as well). But also from this if there is not enough info for you on the forms then there is definitely the phone number of the mark on the form that they’ve scrapped; almost always, and if not then there is enough info on skills over the phone to get the extra info that you need. If you know of a store that is not carbonless, then go trashing in the bins at the back of the store for the receipts with the credit card details on them.


Phishing over the phone

Phishing over the phone for details

Ever had telemarketers asked for your credit card info over the phone? (this is if you haven’t already hung up by just hearing a nigger or paki on the phone) chances are these obvious scams. Even more people fall for this if they believe that the caller is from the credit card company itself or part of the secret service or credit fraud investigations; the FBI, CIA, and police have nothing at all to do with credit card fraud believe it or not.

If you sound professional or part of an important group such as investigations then people are more likely to comply with you if they believe that their card has been used for credit fraud purposes and have to give their credit card info and billing address for verification. The best time to call up the mark is when asap so that they can get back to work. Also if it’s “serious” then the secret service you’re pretending to be. Some social engineering skills are required and you must gain the experience of lying to people yourself. Before calling up the person find out as much information about them as you can.

If you’ve stolen a CC from someone personally you can call them up pretending to be from places such as South Africa, Turkey, or Russia; places like that, get them to confirm their details (milk as much as you want out of them, ask them to bullshit security questions such as their mother’s maiden name, address, etc; you may as well, it’ll make it easier to get a COB for you to use).

You can also get their PIN out of them if you want as well by either straight out asking them to confirm it, or be crafty and after you’ve told them to verify their PIN on the phone for a few mins, have a female voice recording (use AV voice changer) asking them to input their PIN on their dial pad (this won’t be as suspicious); get these recorded so they can be decoded with DTMF decoding hardware/software later

If you try hard enough you can get full info about anyone over the phone (I suggest using a spoof card for this).


Keylogging for CVV2s
Hardware keylogging

First of all, it’s best if you use hardware keyloggers here that you put into the keyboard of a computer belonging to an area where a lot of people are going online a lot and logging into e-mails, eBays, PayPal, etc, pretty much giving you enough info for you to go searching through if you get in their e-mails, or maybe you’re lucky

And come back within 2 days’ time or so and collect the keylogger after doing some browsing yourself (as to not look suspicious just coming in and then leaving a few seconds later).

Or of course, you could set one up in a business and do the classic call-in and do some social engineering from the credit card company or secret service and have them go to the bank online and have them log in to verify, or maybe even have them log in to a fake bank online made by yourself that will collect anyone’s info who logs in on it.


Carding Instore

to a CR-80 piece of plastic and then either cashing out at the ATM or shopping for goods in-store, as long as you have the PIN as well through whatever method you choose to use.

How it’s done is through the use of thejerm software or any other magstripe utility software (thejerm is the best to use). And you do it like this (Written by: Acetrace):

  1. Load up thejerms software
  2. settings tab
  3. hit “Defaults” in the Leading Zeros box
  4. hit “75 bpi” in Set Track 2 density box
  5. go back to actions
  6. hit LoCo or HiCo in the Coercivity box, depending on which you want to do
  7. input your tracks 1 & 2 (without the %; or ? symbols because the program already does it for you)
  8. hit Write Card and swipe your card. (i usually do a read card afterward to make sure everything went ok)
  9. GO SHOPPING!!!

Now how you should act when you go carding in-store is pretty much common sense, but some people get caught up in the moment with nerves, cockiness, or just too many weird amounts of excitement.

Don’t be stuck at the counter trying to remember it. If you’re going to be carding expensive goods then dress smart for the occasion, wear brand-named clothing (that you’ve previously carded Razz) or even a suit. It would look suspicious if someone with you go instore, you ACT like you are using your own card because essentially that’s what it is (well it is now anyway lol) no looking shifty, and don’t look at the fucking cameras; the cameras mean nothing anyway, they don’t know your name or where you live, remember you’re doing nothing wrong. When you go in, don’t rush take your time, and browse around some other items.

Find the item you want to card and even ask the employee simple questions about it (if it’s a TV or comp just ask questions about certain specs and if it’s good for playing video games on). You’ll be most nervous at the checkout, just act as normal as you always have been, don’t make too much small talk but be polite and civil. Once you have the good in your hands don’t bolt out the door, just say thank you and then casually walk out the door, get to your car, and then celebrate all you want.

Carding over the phone

Extra lulz you could use a beige box and call from someone else’s phone but that’s a chance that you do get caught so we’ll keep

it simple and use a payphone (it’s not AS risky to phreak these but the only recent red box tones

The next day postage is said so that they have less time to look up details on the order. Some cards will have difficulty shipping to any address other than the billing address, but it doesn’t hurt to try. If they start to question you then just answer the questions and talk your way around the situation with your social engineering skills;

don’t just run away from the questions or hang up straight away, otherwise, that is cause for suspicion and they

may investigate. If all goes well you should have your item of choice delivered to your drop location or a house

of someone else’s address who you don’t know and call them up saying that you called up the store

and they’ve sent the package to the wrong address and it is still sending there, and work (this is the last resort and only to be tried if you’re good at talking to people, which you should be if you’re a carder). I recommend checking out the section on drops later on in this text.

I recommend using a spoof card for verification over the payphone if they need to verify (if they won’t send without some verification which is usually the case).

IRC

Services provided in IRC

IRC is the main gathering for fellow carders, scam artists, and rippers. To put it in a nutshell, IRC is THE black market, unlike craigslist and eBay which is just black markets. You can get anything illegal off IRC from CP to warez to CC details (which is what we want).

To concentrate on carding though you can buy:

CVVs CVV2s SSNs Utility bill scans CC scans COB (a service to get someone to call up the victim’s bank and get the billing address changed to your drop) Payment for using someone else’s drop and then sending to you Spyware Fake ID/ ID scans DUMPZ Phisher pages The list really is endless

Stumble upon by some random guy.

The messages can be encrypted so they can’t be read by anyone happening to be on the network sniffing the traffic. This makes it harder for investigators to uncover. Easier and quicker to communicate with mass amounts of like-minded people. being made every second, guaranteed). And of course, a variety of services, if you need something you can bet someone from the other side of the world

 

will be willing to share or/and sell to you. There are a lot of disadvantages though, IRC is the equivalent of a backstreet alley, you’ll be fine if you stay cautious, here’s what you should be wary of:

Viruses If you don’t have strong anti-viruses and firewalls you will get infected (no Norton shit, Kaspersky and NOD32 are what you want) Do not accept random .exes or any file for that matter How to find carding channels (Will does not go too much into this as there are secrets

Phishing for a Change of billing

A billing address is the details used for a person’s bank account and most often their credit cards and everything else too, this includes their phone number too.

What a change of billing (COB) is in a nutshell is changing the billing address registered to the card to the drop address you’re gonna be using. When you want to card BIG at various online websites the orders will look more legit that you’ve not changed the billing address), meaning the delivery of your goods will be quicker and will require a lot less verification.

Most of the time you change the billing address over the phone but SOME banks will let you do it online; when you phone up to change it you use spoofcard.com or the pay-as-you-go mobile phone you’re going to be using when carding, or beige boxing Razz

When changing the billing address you need to know as much info as possible about the person’s billing address you’re changing, because the bank is going to ask you 3 security questions you set (such as your mother’s maiden name) before they change it.

You can phish for details over the phone (see the phishing over the phone section above), however, it’s best to use keyloggers and phisher pages for this with a MIX of over the phone.

Use through phishing pages

2 methods here, 1 including over the phone, and one aren’t.

The method without the phone is to just send a ton of e-mails out to random people and send them an HTML e-mail telling them they need to update their information before the to a phisher page off the template and the phisher pages “require” them to answer security questions like their mother’s maiden name, their pet’s name, you know those type of questions.

Another method is to call them up pretending to be the bank and saying there have been different ip ranges logging on their account and they need to confirm their details online, link them to the phisher page and have them fill in the details; have the phisher page redirect to the actual online bank’s login page; then ask if they’ve done say it’s all clear and tell them to log in, they’ll think nothing of it and you now have the answers to their secret questions which you can give to the bank itself when you go to change the billing address

Use through keylogging

This is my favorite method and what I told S_E last night in IRC.

You have a hardware (or software) keylogger set on someone’s comp, use sock proxies when logging into their online bank account and then change their password, call them fill in their forgotten password options (answering secret questions) or of course get them to go to your phisher page and fill in the details (this is if you want to add more fields to get more info) then pretend to be checking it all over, then change in (it doesn’t matter because they’re keylogger and you’ll get their new login if they change the password again anyway), you’ll have all their info logged down too for you to answer your questions when you call the bank.

The best time to do all of this is around the 10th day of the month (people usually get card enough for the remaining days until they see they’re not getting their reports coming to them anymore (if you’re crafty you can pretend to have canceled the online bank account for them after they’ve given you the info you need to know; I used to do this method and keep it going without them knowing).

Drops and what you need to know about them

What drop locations are and what are they used for Well simply a drop location is an abandoned house, or any house that is not under your with them, get items delivered to them that you want no one else to find about or risk finding, or just use it to squat in if you have nowhere else to go. Basically, they are used in ways of keeping your nose clean and are used by most scam artists and sex offenders.

How to find a drop location

There are many ways of finding a drop location for use, whether it temporarily or permanently (although I suggest swapping and changing locations because the main last one I used got raided or broken into and is boarded up and too hot to use); I will suggest 3 ways on how you can find some for you to use.

One final tip is don’t bother going for houses that are boarded up at the front where it is visible to passers-by (it’s okay if round the back is boarded up)

Way #1

prefer to go about it is you should be looking around some older housing estates and more ghetto areas (could also tie in with the sob story you feed to a pedophile/child predator you are possibly scamming). For example, in Derby there is an area called Sinfin, but now there is 2 parts to it and they are New Sinfin and Old Sinfin. Old Sinfin is the area you would want to go to because it’s older it’s most likely to be a lot more houses abandoned or deemed unsafe (it’s bullshit).

friend keep tabs and watch over it for you and give you details so you can keep it all under wraps and safe. It may be a lot riskier with neighborhood watch morons, and noisy neighbors, but it’s still ideal and a little bit less suspicious than the abandoned houses in the older estates, and this is because the older estates usually have all abandoned houses close by, whereas the odd one out covered with a street filled with inhabitants will seem less suspicious to the postman.

Way #2

Now, this is a temporary way of finding a drop location, but is sometimes an effective way and means of getting what you need but has a bit more risk to it; and personally is a way I have never used even till today.

a family member or friends? or been down the pub and heard the common as muck chavs away for?

house is most likely going to be empty for however long they? re going away for. So if you already know where they live then that?s great the job is made easier; if you know their first name and surname then look them up in the phone directory and find their address to go along with the number. If you don’t know where they live, or their name then just listen out to see if you can hear their names come up in conversation; just remember that if it’s in the pub it’s most likely local to it that they live, so you could easily find out by following them home and seeing.

Way #3

Possibly the safest, easiest way of finding, and quickest way to get a drop location.

Most areas have houses up for sale am I right?

Or houses that are up for bidding on, am I right?

Bidding on and for sale.

For example, I would search Derbyhomefinders and look at the list on their site.

All of these houses are empty and often do not have a sign up outside them either (if they do then just take it down and hide it somewhere for the time being).

The advantage to using the lists to find the drop locations to use is it will usually say when the bid is up or if the house has been sold (this lets you know that it will not be ideal to use that certain house now it’s most likely to be inhabited) and will these are the ones you want to be using.

The best thing about this though is that you have a full list of many different drops to use (as I said earlier it’s best to switch drop locations and use many different ones) and it is updated with new ones coming up and tells you full which ones are over and not usable.

You just need to know your agencies for housing and find their website.

Obtaining and using drop locations

fuck do I keep it a secret?

WAY 1

this much is obvious you do not tell anyone except your partner if you’re doing a team bait, and 1 trustworthy friend to keep tabs on it if you are doing a bait on your own, and also the pedophile, but only when he asks. But there is a lot more to it than there.

Appearance isn’t everything at all in any case and it isn’t for this either, but of course, you try to make yourself look as best as you can. The same principles are applied to keeping an abandoned house; you should at least try to get a new lock put on the door which you will also have a key for; just so that if any druggies go there before you then they will have a tougher time getting in (of course it’s ideal you but also if there is a fucked up lock on a door then it’s pretty damn obvious only low life scum or some criminal(s) are using the place, so buy a new lock for the door and get it fitted on, whether you do it yourself or get assistance from a friend who knows what they are doing.

Now as for overgrowing plants and weeds, you can only do so much without being suspected. Do not use a lawnmower, use clippers and hack it as short as you can. It’s best to get all of this done when everyone is at work during the daytime, but in reality, it isn’t ideal at all and most criminals don’t tend to bother with this. Instead, they will make it seem someone is in but is just too ill to do anything with the garden or is just a lazy fucker. They do this by often writing up a note and sticking it to the door or leaving it on the floor near the door saying something such as “No milk today please” or “Not in, please leave packages at the post office”.

Write a few letters to yourself as well ready to come on the same day as the parcel, this will make it look like you get mail and not just the one-off suspicious package now and then.

Now 2 alternatives, you can either get to the abandoned house and take the mail from the mailman while acting as if you live there (you must look the part as lazy or take any packages to the post office for pick up because you are at work or something along those lines.

One final rule is not to be in and out of the hideout every day or whatever, visit probably 2 or 3 times a week.

Way 2

Now there are 2 ways to go about this; you can either just get to the house early in the morning a little bit just before the postman arrives and be at the house outside pretending you’re just about to leave and then sign for the package (if you need to) and collect it off the postman and then be on your way after he’s gone.

Or if you’re good at bypassing alarms (I have a guide on burglary) or the house has no alarm then you could bump the key in at night time (not recommended) or during the daytime the day before when everyone else will be at work as well and hide out there for a bit (hell even take some food that is left in the fridge and feed yourself since you’re spending if at all, or if you do then put headphones on into the tv if it’s that old of an anyone looking after the house while the owners are away come in then you have time to hide.

Obviously, if it’s a package you don’t have to sign for then you can stick up a note on the door early in the morning before the postman comes saying to leave it round the back or whatever excuse you wanna make up.

Way #3

Easy, just as previously except you don’t have to be as cautious and often the alarms are disabled for that time being anyway so you don’t have to worry as much if you bump a key into it.

then take them down and just get them out of the way.

You can even go to this one the night before instead of daytime because no one is hardly going to be watching over this unless it’s in a neighborhood watch area (in which case you chose the wrong area anyway, you dumbass).

Some basic tips to keep in mind

Be there before the postman! can’t stress this enough, it’s too fucking obvious if you’re late. When signing for packages, if you need to, then sign a fake signature (the sig can be any made-up fake shit) with your hand that you don’t write with, so it’s harder to trace in case things go tits up later on down the line. Take anything in any guide with a pinch of salt, things may be different circumstances for you and your situations

ALL ABOUT CARDING

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